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A robotic system for testing fabrics under low‐stress conditions has been developed at UMIST. This system is capable of conducting all the mechanical tests on a single piece of fabric, without operator intervention, thus eliminating human‐related errors. Looks at test control strategy and acquisition of force and deformation data, from the viewpoint of process control in garment assembly.

Textiles have developed high‐quality materials on the basis of highly developed but empirical craft skills. The second half of the 20th century resulted in many academic papers on the analysis of the applied mechanics of fibre assemblies. However, although these researches led to useful qualitative insights, there was almost no quantitative application by the industry. Several factors indicate that the time is now ripe for a change to an engineering design culture. There are major challenges in dealing with assemblies of millions of fibres, with non‐linear, visco‐elastic‐plastic mechanical properties, in anisotropic structures subject to large deformations and strains. The paper describes two approaches to accessible model: fibre rope modelling and TechText CAD. The most useful methodology for modelling yarns, woven fabrics and fabric buckling, is discussed. The priority is to develop a software that industry uses, thus setting up a creative interchange, which will lead to advances.

Public Sector Management and Strategy

This case will be useful for courses in information technology (IT) innovation, public–private partnership (PPP) and strategic management. However, the use of the case will differ on the basis of the target audience who could be students of master's course or executive development course. Detailed discussion can be done on co-innovation strategy followed in a public–private partnership and to understand how a PPP can be successful in enterprise solutions. Further, the understanding on how e-procurement and e-tendering solutions work can be gained through this case. This case should be positioned when the discussion for the planning strategy of IT innovation takes place.

SAP was a market leader in enterprise application software and empowered people across the globe to work more efficiently. The e-procurement solution for OILGIAN was managed by SAP LABS India. OILGIAN entrusted SAP with the task to design and implement the e-tendering solution. SAP appointed Ramakrishna Potluri, Lead Consultant, SAP, to manage the design and implementation of the e-tendering module as a part of e-procurement solution for the public sector. The reporting and the security concerns were stated by OILGIAN, and Potluri reassured that his competent team would comply with the needs. The main predicaments that he was going through were that how best he could take the proposition forward. Should he create the innovative solutions in-house or co-create with the customers? Which business models should he follow for this public–private co-innovation to be a predecessor of successful projects?

The case illustrates the following objectives: to discuss the co-innovation strategy followed in a public–private partnership; to understand how a public–private partnership can be successful in enterprise solutions; and to understand how e-procurement and e-tendering solutions work.

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The purpose of this paper is to explore the ethnocentric tendencies of Emirati Gen Z consumers and to provide empirical evidence on how demographic variables (gender and education) influence ethnocentric tendencies. The study also attempts to know the impact of ethnocentrism on the buying behavior of the segment.

Researchers collected the opinions of 310 Emirati Gen Z consumers by using a modified CETSCALE. The data was reviewed and coded by applying software R Studio and Microsoft Excel. Cronbach’s α and Kaiser–Meyer–Olkin (KMO) tests were administered to check the internal consistency and validity of the 17-item CETSCALE. Then, the factor extraction method principal component analysis (PCA) was used to analyze the data. The selected hypotheses were tested by using the Cronbach α and Kruskal–Wallis (K-W) hypothesis testing technique.

The findings suggest that Emirati Gen Z consumers substantially ethnocentric who prefer domestic products/services over foreign goods. No significant influence of gender and education on Emirati Gen Z consumers’ ethnocentric tendencies.

The targeted subjects were selected only from Dubai and the Sharjah Emirates and not covered the remaining five emirates of the UAE. Consumers were asked to assess their ethnocentrism without reference to a specific product or service.

This type of meticulous study in the UAE has never been done before to explore the ethnocentric tendencies of Gen Z consumers.

This paper aims to provide an overview of the current manufacturing methods for three-dimensional textile preforms while providing experimental data on the emerging techniques of combining yarn interlocking with yarn interlooping.

The paper describes the key textile technologies used for composite manufacture: braiding, weaving and knitting. The various textile preforming methods are suited to different applications; their capabilities and end performance characteristics are analysed.

Such preforms are used in composites in a wide range of industries, from aerospace to medical and automotive to civil engineering. The paper highlights how the use of knitting technology for preform manufacture has gained wider acceptance due to its flexibility in design and shaping capabilities. The tensile properties of glass fibre knit structures containing inlay yarns interlocked between knitted loops are given, highlighting the importance of reinforcement yarns.

The future trends of reinforcement yarns in knitted structures for improved tensile properties are discussed, with initial experimental data.

The paper aims to propose an approach to intelligent evaluation of the tensile test. A robotized system is used that performs the fabrics tensile test and estimates the extensibility of the samples using a feed‐forward neural network while trying to imitate the human expert estimation.

The specifications of the tensile test are derived by an extensive observation of the respective experts' estimation performance. The fabric sample size and the experimental conditions are specified. Linguistic values of the term “fabric extensibility” are extracted through a knowledge acquisition process. The tensile test is performed by a robot manipulator with a simple gripper and the experimental measurements (force, strain) are fed online into a neural network. The network is trained according to the extensibility estimations of the experts. The trained network is tested in estimating unknown fabric's extensibility.

The results demonstrate that the system is capable of estimating the extensibility of new fabrics.

This work can be integrated in the robotized sewing process with intelligent control where the fabric's extensibility in terms of linguistic values is necessary. The proposed system initiates a new approach, in which the fabric properties are expressed and used in a way that will facilitate the introduction of the artificial intelligence methods into the clothing industry.

Under a dynamic business environment that is seen today, organizations need to adopt the right blend of strategies to attract, retain and maintain customers. Extant marketing literature has shed light on some key roles that after-sale service and the larger customer support system could play in attaining the same. Specifically, this paper aims to attempt to model the linkages between after-sales service, service quality, customer satisfaction, customer loyalty and word of mouth (WOM).

A structured questionnaire was used to collect data from 280 two-wheeler owners, who had a recent experience of after sales service at their respective authorized service centers, through purposive sampling method.

The findings reveal that both customer loyalty and repurchase intention significantly and positively mediate the relationship between customer satisfaction and word of mouth. This indicates that satisfied customers are more likely to be loyal to the service firms and would spontaneously engage themselves with positive word of mouth.

Despite the increasing importance of after-sales service, empirical researches on this subject have been quite limited. This study aims at filling the void in extant literature by examining the inter-relationships between after-sales service, service quality, customer satisfaction and WOM.

Examines the tenth published year of the ITCRR. Runs the whole gamut of textile innovation, research and testing, some of which investigates hitherto untouched aspects. Subjects discussed include cotton fabric processing, asbestos substitutes, textile adjuncts to cardiovascular surgery, wet textile processes, hand evaluation, nanotechnology, thermoplastic composites, robotic ironing, protective clothing (agricultural and industrial), ecological aspects of fibre properties – to name but a few! There would appear to be no limit to the future potential for textile applications.

The purpose of this paper is to establish a simple and practical elastica model for the deflection of weft (warp) in a plain wave fabric.

The weft yarn is considered as an elastic beam fixed supported at the ends and deflected in the middle by a vertical load. An analytical model, based on the elastic theory and small deflection case is adopted to study the factors affecting the deflection of the yarn. To investigate the model, yarns with different rigidities are used. A total of five different yarn counts are produced in the same ring spinning system and then used as weft yarn in a plain weave fabric. All other parameters of the yarns and the fabrics are kept identical. Fresh fabrics are analyzed and the maximum deflection of the weft is measured using the microscope. The actual curves of the deflected weft are then compared with the theoretical curves.

The experimental curves show to agree well with the theoretical model. The results also show that as yarn linear density decreases, the deflection increases.

The paper shows that while the large deformation “elastica” theory is typically used for woven fabric modeling, the small deflection theory can be useful for rapid computation.

The purpose of this paper is to optimise parameters of digital image analysis to investigate the deformation behaviour of woven sample and to detect the onset and variation of wrinkling that occurs due to bias‐tensioned fabric buckling.

Using models of predescribed shape, the relationship between the digitized gray scale intensities and wrinkles of the surface are analysed and conditions of specimen illumination and filtering procedures are chosen.

It is proposed to convert acquired images to binary to record the onset of buckling and to estimate critical buckling parameters of stretched woven samples. The threshold value is determined as mean value of approximated histogram of stretched specimen centre line. It is defined that profile curve and gray scale disperse presented by parameter CV can be used to obtain additional information and to compare behaviour of different samples during bias tension.

Proposed image analysis technique allows detection of the onset of buckling wave formation and evaluation of surface waviness changes in woven samples different in colour and weave type tension. However, the behaviour of fabric samples with sharp multicoloured and complicated patterns cannot be assessed by gray scale imaging.

The proposed approach can be adjusted to investigate different wrinkling problems – buckling during simple shearing or picture frame test, seam puckering, draping.